are you wearing the right size?

i haven't been posting to the jocole blog in AGES!! that blog was created to discuss what was new and going on with my business and also to just talk about clothing and thing related to clothing and dressing in general.

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today i'm discussing correct bra sizing ... so head on over there and check it out. i'm also working on a series to help you clean out your closets.

what you need to know before you go shopping

i'll be updating this post as i post over on the jocole blog, so go visit.

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i'm re-publishing some older pieces that i originally wrote here and will be adding more to them, so go see how you can dress without losing yourself. it discusses figure types, which is information you need to know. you should not go shopping without reading this series.

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not sure how to make the most of your figure? check out figure flattery 101 for more tips.

figure flattery 101

Dressing with style involves more than just wearing what you like. It takes strategy. By using your clothing’s fit, fabric, color, details, pattern and proportions to lengthen, slim and direct attention to exactly where you want it (and away from the places you don’t), you’ll be able to create a look that is both flattering and in keeping with your personality.
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Fit.
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Wearing clothes that fit is the most important thing you can do to create a slimming, attractive look. Everything you wear should fit perfectly. This may seem obvious, but who hasn’t stood in front of a dressing room mirror and convinced herself that no one else will notice that the skirt is a bit too tight? News flash: it will give you away every time. Good fit means that clothes skim the body (showing curves without clinging to them) and that all the details (lapels, pocket flaps, slits, seams, darts, and pleats) lie flat. Any time clothing pulls or buckles, it not only creates a sloppy appearance, but adds pounds. The effect is the same for tight fitting and loose fitting clothing.
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A garment that fits well:

is neither too skimpy nor too bulky

is in no way constricting

skims your body gracefully

touches the body where it is designed to — not above or below the area h

as no extraneous bumps, lumps, creases, puckers, gaps, droops, bags, etc. d

oes not have to be adjusted when you sit, stand or move

Key areas to watch are shoulders, bust, waist, derriere, crotch, arms and legs.
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Another major key to creating the best silhouette for your body is wearing a bra that fits. It can actually make you look 10 lbs lighter. If you are not sure you are wearing the correct size read my post on correct bra sizing for more information on this topic
http://jodijean.blogspot.com/2006/09/correct-bra-sizing.html
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Fabric.
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Fabrics that fall smoothly over the curves of your body are the most flattering. If fabric is too stiff, it takes on the shape of its own and winds up looking boxy; too thin, and it clings to every bump and bulge; too bulky or too shiny, and it adds pounds. Just right is a matte fabric free on unwanted heft but with enough body to slide over problem areas.
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Color.
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As anyone who has ever stepped out of the house in a red dress knows, color catches the eye and can make you look terrific.
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Monochromatic. There are two compelling reasons to dress in one color, head to toe: The long, unbroken line it creates makes for a pulled-together look, and an overall color can actually make you appear slimmer. Stark color contrasts draw the eye and form horizontal lines that divide your body, making it appear wider and shorter. And while you can achieve the effect with any color, darker shades, which absorb more light, are the most slimming.
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Bright and light colors. Even though dark colors can make you appear slimmer, and lighter, brighter can do the opposite, there is still a place for vivid hues in your wardrobe. By strategically placing paler or brightly colored pieces near or over a part of your body that you like, you’re making sure it gets the attention it deserves. You can always pair brights with darks to balance the body.
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Details and flourish.
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Details, color and naked skin can be used to divert attention to a place you’d rather emphasize. So by all means use beading along your neckline to draw attention from your large derriere. Just be wary of too much of a good thing. Anything that adds an additional layer or girth — ruffles, patch pockets, wide lapels, big buttons or epaulettes — only accentuate what’s underneath.
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Pattern.
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With pattern, there are four considerations: color, size, direction and the subtleties of stripes.
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Color. Tonal patterns (pink or red) attract less attention then those in contrasting colors, and the darker the background, the more slimming the print.
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Size. Always choose prints that are in scale with your size. Petite figures are more flattered by small, low-contrast prints, while taller women can take bigger prints with more contrast. Large women should also choose bigger prints, but may benefit more from the slimming power of a low-contrast design. A uniform, all-over pattern, which keeps the eye from resting on any one spot, is also a good diversionary tactic for voluptuous bodies.
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Direction. Sometimes the print itself creates a line, and sometimes the negative space does it. Either way, vertical lines are preferable to horizontal lines, and diagonal lines that are more vertical than horizontal will have the same elongating effect as a true vertical.
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Stripes. When it comes to wearing stripes, the decision involves more than simply choosing between horizontal or vertical lines. While it’s generally true that verticals lengthen and slim and that some horizontals will make a heavy area look heavier, it all depends on the size and spacing of the stripe. Horizontals can be used to create beneficial optical illusions if you’re of average size. Widely placed horizontal stipes, for example, can give the illusion of a bigger bust and — when worn with a dark bottom — can help balance a pear-shaped figure. If the horizontals are thin and widely spaced, they can have a lengthening effect, while widely space vertical stripes can widen. No matter which way your stripes fall, however, make sure the garment is on the loose side. If it’s too tight or stretchy, you’ll wind up wearing squiggles!
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Proportion.
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Figure flattery is not just about camouflage and diversion — it’s also a balancing act. The length of your legs in relation to your torso, the width of your shoulders in relation to your hips — these things matter to your overall appearance, and just like everything else, can be manipulated.
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Generally, to avoid cutting your body right through the middle horizontally, every outfit should be either "short-over-long" (or full) or "long-over-short" (or narrow). A short narrow jacket over an A-line skirt or a cropped jacket over trousers is one way to achieve the "short-over-long" look. Conversely, a long jacket with skinny pants or a tunic over a pencil skirt creates a "long-over-short" look.

clothing personalities, part 3 (natural and dramatic)

natural

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Sporty natural, more than any other personality, knows who she is from a very young age. She needs comfortable clothes, which is why her clothes are less tailored and unstructured. She is a great team player. She is a loyal, faithful friend or employee. Material things or how things look are usually not her focus. She simply has a no-fuss, no muss attitude about life.

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Her body type is as follows:

Height is average tall, Body is strong and sturdy in appearance, Hips are curvy, with a nice waistline, or hips can be straight, with a thicker waist, Bone structure is softly angular with broad to average shoulder width. Body may be slightly muscular.

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Personality Profile:

Warm and friendly, goal orientated, responsible.

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Clothing:

Softly tailors, unstructured garments. Nothing fussy or frilly or fitted. Minimal details, loose garments for mobility. Separates dominate, mix and match, sportswear.

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Fabrics for her:

Textures are soft, rough or nubby. Wrinkled looks are good, Knits will often be jersey, cable or studded. Tweeds, wool challis, linens, cottons and denims

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Patterns:

Paisleys, plaids, stripes, solids with matte finishes

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Accessories:

She seldom will finish her look with added detail, Jewelry is rarely her focus, Simple chains and stud earrings. May be chunky or funky, earth or Indian jewelry

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Shopping tips:

A planned budget is ideal. Shop department stores, catalogs or specialty stores such as Lands' End, Eddie Bauer, Mark Fare, Strike and Talbot's. Discount stores or cheaper chains will not carry the traditional natural look because this style is not always produced in cheaper fabrics. Always remember personal taste prevails. You are rarely willing to stretch and risk new looks, you like your comfort zone.

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Proto-types:

Cheryl Tiegs, Brooke Shields, Jane Fonda, Ali McGraw, Farrah Fawcett

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dramatic

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She has a sophisticated, high-fashion look. Some dramatics have a tendency to over-do their look to unattractive extremes. Just think of Cher; wherever the dramatic goes, she turns heads. People want to see what she has on and how she is put together. She likes large groups and a lavish array of foods. She is a risk taker. She's happiest owning her own business. She enjoys being in control. She is a private person, which becomes apparent when you try to get close to her. She allows no grass to grow under her feet...she is always moving forward.

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Her body type is as follows:

Height will be taller (5'8" and above). Bone structure will be narrow and angular. Overall look can be exotic.

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Personality Profile:

Natural authority, in control, risk taker.

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Clothing:

Long, sleek and always straight lines. High fashion, severely tailored garments. Square, sharp shoulder lines, angular necklines, shapes and edges. Ensemble looks, no mix or match separates. ...

Fabrics for her:

All fabric choices must hold a defined shape. An appropriate choice would be gabardines, foilles, stiff brocades, taffetas, linens, stiff brocades, metallics etc.

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Patterns:

Bold and sweeping abstract, ethnic or geometric in bold colors. Head to toe dark neutrals or bold colors.

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Accessories:

Bold, chunky, angular and dangling are all a part of who she is....hats, scarves and brooches, as well.

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Shopping tips:

A planned budget is ideal. A greater amount of money will be spent on accessories. This is where her uniqueness is. Whatever you choose must make a statement. Put the focus on current trends in clothing and accessorization.

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Proto-types:

Cher, Barbra Streisand, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Linda Dano

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next we'll talk about figure flattery

clothing personalities, part 2 (classic and gamin)

classic

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She is the epitome of elegance and refinement. The classic personality is very controlled, from the time of her youth; she expresses her heart and soul in her appearance. She does not like chaotic environments...it will always bring out the worst in her. As a person, she is warm and caring. She is always sincere.

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Her body type is as follows:

Height is average (5'4" to 5'7"). Figure will be balanced and symmetrical. Her appearance is one of a mature adult, never "girlish". Body is not too thin, too delicate or too sturdy

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Personality Profile:

Emotional nature, balanced, controlled and rational. Old fashioned person, home body.

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Clothing:

Elegant, refined, fashionable, dignified, clean simple lines. Softly tailored or soft flowing. Ensemble dressing, not usually mix and match. Never trendy, faddish or severe in style. No crisp, bouffant lines.

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Fabrics for her:
Matte finishes or low luster are best. Fabric weights are moderate. Smooth knots and double knits are great. Refined textures such as silk, soft woolen fabrics, cottons, smooth knits

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Patterns:
Evenly placed prints, soft flowing abstracts, houndstooth, herringbone, polka dots, stripes, solids.

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Accessories:

Jewelry, belts, handbags and shoes should be refined, elegant and fashionable. Sleek, slightly chunky, smooth circle or geometic, no angles. Classics do not wear dangles or funky stuff!

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Shopping tips:

A planned budget is ideal. Because classics need to purchase quality clothing, your motto needs to be "Less clothes for more money". Focus on a base color scheme, especially if money is limited for clothing purchases. Investing in solids and refined fabrics are the key. Keep an eye on fashion trends, not fads, to stay current and fashionable

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Proto-types:
Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Grace Kelly, Nancy Reagan
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gamin
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The gamin is the most misunderstood of all the personalities. Many of them want to be another personality. She is petite and often is unwilling to accept her petiteness and does not want to be called cute...and yet, she is adorably cute! Her personality is spunky and energetic. She loves fun and a good time. Many gamins take "the party" wherever they go.
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Her body type is as follows:

Height is 5'5" and under, Build is small to medium, Her body can be straight and slim or chunky and stocky.
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Personality Profile:

Energetic, drive, spunk. Dynamic, charming personality. Fast mover.
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Clothing:

Very tailored, straight, sharp fine lines. Animated outline, snappy, chic, lots of crisp trims of contrast, braiding or beads. Eye catching details.

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Fabrics for her:

Colors should be bold and sassy as she can create, Multi-color splashes or caricature work well, Prints should be colorful, animated and contemporary, Matte or low luster finishes of fabric surfaces are best. Oriental silks, crisp cottons, wool, etc.

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Patterns:
Smart, colorful, animated, trendy and contemporary in look.

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Accessories:

Jewelry pieces should be scaled to body proportions....smaller sizes are generally best. Gamins are the only personality who use contrasting hosiery colors for a more staccato appearance. Small and geometric, asymmetrical or irregular shapes. Contemporary and trendy looks.

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Shopping tips:

A planned budget is ideal. Focus should be petite sizing. You are perfect for mix and match. Avoid monochromatic, unless you are combined with another personality. Coordinate two or three colors into your garments. One color needs to dominate as a foundation color.

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Proto-types:

Sandy Duncan, Sally Fields, Carol Channing

clothing personalities, part 1 (ingenue and romantic)

The first step is learning what our clothing personality profile is. There are six basic personality types:

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Classic -- simple but elegant
Dramatic -- entrance making
Romantic -- sexy
Ingenue -- innocent
Natural -- earthy/sporty
Gamin -- spunky

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we'll start with the Ingenue today.

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The ingenue woman is a sweet, youthful, innocent portrait of femininity. She is not sexy and alluring, but rather has a naive, feminine side. When she enters a room, she brings a special quality of freshness.

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Her body type is as follows:
Feminine, small-boned, dainty. Regardless of height, her frame is delicate looking. Figure traits are gently rounded.

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Personality Profile:
Artistic, charming, enchanting and magnetic (like Romantic).

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Clothing:
Frilly frocks of tucks, ruffles and lace. Old fashioned feminine styles, Victorian looks. Simple clothes in feminine fabrics.

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Fabrics for her:
Weights should be light, soft woolens and fine silks, fine cotton, crisp cotton, angora, cashmere

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Patterns:

feminine prints and florals, from small to large

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Accessories:
Jewelry is small and dainty, florals, ribbons, bows and cameos, diamonds

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Shopping tips:
A planned budget is ideal. You may first want to look through a catalog to find your style. Fabric quality is not crucial, you may wear less expensive clothes and have a more expansive wardrobe. Always remember to finish your look. This is where you may have trouble, whether it is shoes, bag, coat or jewelry

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Proto-types:
Goldie Hawn, Charlene Tilton, Barbara Mandrel

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personally i really dont think that there *are* any ingenues (at least not adults). i think all ingenues grow up into romantics. i almost think these two categories should be merged, but that's just my humble opinion.

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romantics

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She is a sexy lady; curvy and very feminine. She is the epitome of sex appeal. When she enters a room full of people, most women present will feel threatened by her sex appeal. She is charming, enchanting and magnetic. She can be very accommodating and sympathetic.

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Her body type is as follows:
Height is average to short, not tall. Figure proportions are very shapely, rounded and soft. Hips and buttocks are always rounded.

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Personality Profile:
Artistic, charming, enchanting and magnetic.

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Clothing:
Rounded lines, lots of draping of fabrics, flowing shapes in dresses with a waistline. Waist definition, with soft, ornate feminine lines. Fluidity of line from head to toe.

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Fabrics for her:
Weights should be light to medium, finishes should be rich. Suggested fabrics are silk, soft wool, crepes, sweater knits such as angora and cashmere, suede's and soft leathers.

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Patterns:

Oversized florals, polka dots, feathery shapes, soft abstracts, solids.

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Accessories:
Jewelry is dainty in detail, but lavish in effect. Silk scarves and flowers work well with this look. Evening looks are ornate. Diamonds

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Shopping tips:
A planned budget is ideal. Focus on spending the most money on the waist up. The garment itself must express your style. Do not choose cheap fabrics, it will discount your look quickly.

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Proto-types:
Liz Taylor, Rita Hayworth, Sophia Loren, Donna Mills, Jane Seymore

quick survey

the jocole team has been furiously working on expanding our products line and we want to know what *you* want. you can influence what products jocole carries.

please take a minute or two and complete the survey in the link below:

http://quizilla.com/users/jocole/polls/3581063/influence_the_jocole_product_line/

any other additional comments or suggestions can be emailed directly to Jocole at: buyjocole@yahoo.com

we plan to continue introducing products and color options, if you have a product or a color that you would like to see on our website, http://www.jocole.net, please contact us.

correct bra sizing

most women are wearing the wrong bra size, so i've decided to write a post on how to find the correct fit.

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there are two elements to your bra size: the band size (ie. 32, 34, 36) and cup size (ie. A, B, C). you will need a measuring tape to determine your bra size.

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1. band size:

using a soft tape-measure, measure around the ribcage directly under the bust. be sure the tape is smooth across the back and level with the front. add 5 to this measurement to obtain your band size.

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for example: if your ribcage measurement is 29" + (5) = 34" band size. if the resulting band size is an odd number like 33", you can usually go to the next even band size (34").

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2. cup size:

measure loosely around the fullest part of your bust, holding the tape measure straight but not tight. subtract your band size from this measurement.

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the result would be your cup size. if the different is:

less than 1" to 1" = A cup

more than 1" to 2" = B cup

more than 2" to 3" = C cup

more than 3" to 4" = D cup

more than 4" to 5" = DD cup

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for example: if your band size is 34" and your bust measurement is 35", you wear an "A" cup.

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Tips:

you should take your measurements while you are wearing a non-padded underwire bra or a tight-fitting seamless t-shirt.

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because standard band sizes are even numbers only, if you have an odd-numbered band size, you may need to go up or down a size depending on how you like your bra to fit.

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ensure the right fit:

now that you have your measurements, knowing how the bra should be positioned on your body will also help you find the perfect bra.

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here are a few key questions to keep in mind when you're trying on bras to ensure that you get the right fit:

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band

q. can you fit two fingers under the band comfortably?

a. the band should be fitted, but not cutting into your skin. it should sit lower on the back than in the front and sit comfortably below the shoulder blades. the back of the bra should not ride up above the bra line. it it does, adjust the straps. if the bra still rides up, try a smaller band size.

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bra straps

q. are the straps adjusted for individual comfort?

a. straps should be adjusted to give support to the bust without cutting into the shoulders. if the straps are falling down, you may not be filling up the cups. try a smaller cup size.

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cups

q. do the cups fit smoothly?

a. the cups should be filled out so they fit smoothly. if there are wrinkles, you may need a smaller cup size. in the case of cotton/spandex underwire bras, there should be a little excess fabric in the cups to allow for shrinkage. if there is overflow at the top, under the arms, you should try a larger cup size.

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tip: 34D, 36C, and 38B are the same cup size. if the band is not snug enough, try a smaller band size and a larger cup.

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underwires

q. do the underwires completely surround the breast tissue?

a. all pressures should lie on the underwire to support the breasts without digging in at the sides. underwires lie flat against the chest. if the underwire is standing away from the body, suggest a bigger cup size. underwires should completely surround the breast tissue to provide support.

dressing without losing yourself

When we are dressing ourselves, we must learn the basic principle, and that is to keep a sense of our own personal style apparent. Otherwise, we will feel made up or unattractive, because we are trying to duplicate someone else's look, instead of learning to develop our own sense of style that best suits our body frame, clothing preferences and personality.
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When getting started, you must first learn your body frame. Listed below are all four of the bodies, along with their characteristics and you choose which one of them best describes your body (you may fall into one or a combination of more than one category). The overall goal is to draw the viewer’s eye up to the beauty of your face.
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A-Frame

Body is narrower at the top half and wider at the lower hip and upper thigh area
Legs may be shorter and sometimes heavier
Upper torso may be average to long, firm and slender
When there is weight gain, it is usually in the upper thighs and hips
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Goal: Balance shape by widening shoulders. This can be achieved by choosing garments with shoulder pads or sleeve detailing and horizontal necklines.
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V-FrameShoulders appear to be wider than the hips
Bust is unusally large, with a shorter torso and high waist
Thighs and derriere are usually flat
Legs are thin
Tummy may be more prominent than bust
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Goal: Give illusion of hourglass shape by widening hips. This can be achieved by chooing garments that have width and fullness in the skirt or pants, pockets at the hips and long tunic style tops.
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H-FrameBody appears to be straigh up and down
Thighs and derriere are usually flat
Legs may be longer
Bust is average to large
Weight gain is usually through the middle
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Goal: Create hour glass figure with illusion of smaller waist. This can be achieved by choosing either a bloused garment with a flared skirt and belted waist, wrap tops, v necklines, and long tunic style tops.
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8-Frame
Figure is curvy and perfectly balanced
Bust is full, waist is small, with average length
Hips are gently tapered, with good proportions to derriere
Leg length and upper torso are balanced
Weight gain is always evenly distributed
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Goal: Emphasize figure; avoid clutter, fluff and tight fit. This can be achieved by choosing garments that fit the body and identify the waist, wrap tops, v and scoop necklines, shaped one-piece dresses.

modesty

I had plans to post on my recent trip to the hospital, but I feel that this matter is much more important. (and please bear with me, I just typed this whole long post and my computer ate it.)
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recently on the blogs that I read there has been much discussion about "modesty". although I’m not a mom ... yet. I’ve always felt very strongly in that matter. I don’t think that this is necessarily just an issue with our kids, although there is an issue with that. I don’t ever shop for little girls clothes, but I have seen some in passing that make me sick. Why do people, and clothing retailers and manufacturers feel the need that we as parents want our six years olds looking like teenagers? They don’t need "sex appeal" they are little girls and need to remain that way.
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While I was working as a pattern maker in a custom bathing suit shop there was an order for a bathing suit for a one year old. It was for a bikini with a thong bottom. Yes you read that right. Why in the world would someone want to look at a one year olds bottom in a thong? Where would the diaper go? How could that be comfortable on such a small child (let alone, an adult)? It was disgusting, but I had to make it.
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Yes it is a problem for our girls, but I also think it is our problem as well. We as women and mothers need to be the example to our children and the children around us that modesty is important. We need to show them the correct way to dress. It is easy to be modest if you truly desire to and we need to be the examples.
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Modesty has always been an issue for me, I struggled with it as a teenager, but now as an adult I see it’s importance. So much so, that I started a business completely based on modesty. Check it out: http://www.jocole.net./ They are shirts designed to perfectly cover you in all of the right places. They are reversible, which means, that if you wear it one way it was a modest scoop neckline, or if you flip it around it has an even higher neckline. And they have an extra extra long length. You can wear them alone, are with the latest styles without compromising modesty. They are designed to expand your wardrobe options – while keeping your cleavage, back and stomach covered.
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The clothing that we wear reflects who we are. Modesty in our dress is a virtue we should not put aside because of today’s fashions. I value modesty in ones appearance. My goal is to provide clothing that women of all ages can feel good about wearing. I don’t believe that you have to choose between dressing modesty and dressing fashionably. How we dress is an expression of who we are. Everyone has their own unique style, and my products empower women to express themselves by choosing the clothes that they love AND still be modest.
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If you feel like reading more in the matter, you can check out:
http://everydaymommy.net/everyday-mommy/2006/9/5/moms-for-modesty.html
I feel very strongly about this subject, and I think we all should.